![]() ![]() In terms of 'real' agitation, this is virtually continuous agitation compared to the temperature and time involved and compared with the 100 deg process. Secondly, agitation is less frequent at lower temperatures, continuous for the first minute and 10 seconds every 30 seconds after that. The literature abounds with cautionary statements about getting agitation just right when you use short development times. You know that short development times are harder to control. Alternately, perhaps some of the kit can use commercially available solutions - Kodak C-41 Color Dev, for instance, or Tetenal stabilizer (just as examples), instead of requiring mixing everything from scratch.įirstly, a lower temperature process is more apt to give higher uniformity due to the longer development time. What would be ideal is if I could either buy the chemicals ready to dilute, or get them in a kit similar to those sold by Photographer's Formulary, rather than have to source a dozen or more different chemicals, most of which would be used *only* for C-41 (which I don't see myself doing as often as B&W). Crossover is more of a concern since it's harder to correct out. A small, consistent color shift is no big deal scanning and printing can both correct that easily enough. I don't mind a long process the overall time running long just means I'd only be able to do color on a weekend or day off - compared to not doing it at all now. Obviously, if I could build a temp controlled bath, I wouldn't need to worry about that, but 100F is a little high for aquarium heaters. Well, let's see - I could work at 75 or 80 degrees F without a problem, but like you 100 F would be a problem with hot water capacity, at least in this house we have only a 40 gallon water heater, and since it's under the house, a larger one is a major problem (not to mention I don't own the house, so would have to convince the landlord to upgrade). This fix was used in my process, and at 68 deg will fix the film in about 1 minute, but I give it 3 minutes as compared to the C41 fix which takes about 10 mins for complete fixation. ![]() See the thread 'super fix' on this site to see if you have any problem with the fix portion of the blix. It will be based on the current RA C41 process excepting any proprietary information. Regarding a blix, I understand your feelings, but if I give you a blix formula, it will work. ![]() If stabilization is too short, you will experience dye stability problems, especially if the final wash is not adequate. I give it 1.5 mins in this range and use 2 mins below. I've run so many 100 deg processes late into the night that I've used up all of the hot water for showers, and also it has caused my wife fits (and myself) doing laundry, so the lower the temperature the happier we all will be here.Īs for the stabilizer, well, my C41 kit says 1.5 minutes at 75 - 105 degrees F. This is an update after a night of processing experiments! Time and some trial prints in a week or so, but your feedback will be Non linear process times from 100 degrees to 68 deg. (maybe this will vanish when I get to theĥ. ( I don't know as I have not made prints on theĤ. Maybe a slightly magenta or red cast in the negative (cyan shiftģ. The prices you may pay other than the times above are:Ģ. Stabilizer is going to be at least 3 mins. Wash is probably going to be 10 mins or longer. Is this too long?ĭo you want shorter times, higher temperatures or a Blix? Which? Is this too long?įix time is at least 8 minutes. Is this too long? Should I try 75īleach time is at least 8 minutes. My guess so far is that the development time is going to So far, I find that the development time is over 18 minutes at 68ĭegrees. ![]() And, at the same time ask some relevant questions of those I'm working out a process myself, and thought I might post my Several people have expressed an interest in running the C41 process ![]()
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